The Nigerian Dwarf goats are the smallest of the dairy breed having the graceful, refined, proportions of the dairy goat at about 1/3 the size: Maximum height at the withers (high point of shoulder) for does: 22 1/2", bucks: 23 1/2".

 

The care of your Nigerian is similar to the care of other goats. Good management (selection, nutrition, parasite control, health care, housing and responsibile breeding) is the foundation of your herd and this will determine the ultimate condition and confirmation of your stock. Goats are herd animals and depend on the companionship of other goats. Two goats make a herd, as do a goat and a sheep, if raised together. A single goat is a miserable goat and will make you a miserable goat owner.

 

For their housing you must provide a barn, shed, or a large dog house so they can get out of rain, snow, wind and sun. You must provide a sturdy fence; the BEST fencing is four foot high by 16 foot long graduated livestock, horse, or goat panels are ideal and will last. As you think about fencing, remember that your goal is twofold: to keep your goats where you want them, and to protect them from dogs and coyotes who are their greatest threat. Never trust a dog or dogs with your goats! Dogs are predators-goats are prey, unless you have a trained livestock guardian dog.

 

The feeding requirements of your goats depends on their age and gender. As ruminants, they depend on a diet primarily of high quality forage, including grass, hay (like alfalfa), Sweet smelling, non dusty, second cut grass or grass/legume hay is ideal for all and should be fed free choice.

 

Males are prone to developing kidney/urinary tract stones (calculi) so should be maintained on a low protein, low calcium diet. A mineral balance achieved with a goat-formula mineral supplement aids in the prevention of urinary calculi. I recommend feeding males limited grain once they are over 6 months to one year of age, with a goat-formulated mineral supplement. Avoiding high protein feed supplements significantly reduces the risk of developing urinary calculi (blockage). You can give your wether or buck a vegi or fruit treat while the girls get their grain. (If you insist on feeding grain to (mature) males, use a pellet that contains a urine acidifier, ammonium chloride, which helps prevent calculi or add ammonium chloride to the grain you feed. They should  not be fed more than 1/8-1/4 cup per day). If you've had a problem with UC you might try adding extra urine acidifiers.

 

Does benefit from alfalfa and/or increased grain - 16 or 18% protein goat feed when pregnant or lactating. Mature non-breeding, animals may be maintained on a good quality hay alone. Kids are growing and benefit from a high protein diet. I strongly recommend feeding kids a starter pellet medicated with a coccidiastat for their first 6 months. It is also a good idea to have your vet check the stool for coccidia and other parisites regualrly when your goats are young and anually when mature.

 

Goats enjoy a variety of extras: a salt block, fruit and vegetable scraps, tree prunings (apple, pine, spruce, maple, willow, etc). Be careful to avoid mold! Goats are very susceptible to mold toxins. Avoid toxic plants! Rhododendron, azalea, yew (looks like spruce but no scent), laurel, cherry... these can all kill in very small doses. Never change the diet suddenly, always introduce new or extras in small quantities. If your goat over eats (gorges on grain) that which it is not accustomed, watch it carefully for signs of illness and be prepared to call the vet.

 

Goats need fresh water at all times. They also benefit from a salt block. A mineral supplement formulated for goats should be provided. Free choice minerals and baking soda should be available 24/7.  Two brands of minerals we like and have had good luck with are Sweetlix meat maker and Purina Goat Mineral.

​Copper deficiency in goats can cause a variety of symptoms, including anemia, poor coat condition, and decreased fertility. Goats that are deficient in copper may also be more susceptible to parasites. If you live in a copper deficient area giving copper supplements are also a good idea.  We use these copper bolus supplements.

 

Goats need to be immunized annually for Clostridium Perfringens, tetanus, and in some areas rabies.  

Colorado Serum states on vaccination scheduling:

CASEOUS D-T (CDT) Colorado Serum ( tetani-perfringens Type D-Corynebacterium pseudotuberculosis Bacterin-Toxoid)

Inject under the skin in armpit between front leg & chest. Make a tent with the skin and shoot toward body. Always dosage is 2cc

Adults: 2cc 4-6 wks before kidding, Booster 30 days later, then each following year the annual booster 30-35 days prior to kidding. All adults need booster every 12 months.

Kids: give 2 cc at 2-4 weeks and again 3-4 weeks later and again at 6 months; annual booster.

 

Selenium injections once a year is also helpful if living in a deficient area (like the northeastern US). For the best health of your goats, as well as prevention of resistance to dewormers, you should deworm your goats only as needed. We use and recommend the FAMACHA system to determine which goats need deworming. We have found that levamisole (Prohibit) is most effective against barber-pole worms (Haemonchus contortus) also the use of dual wormers can help with worm overload.   Pasture rotation is your best tool in parasite control. 

​

Hooves must be be trimmed as needed: the bottom should be flat without edges curling under. Traditional hoof trimers for goats work well but you can also use a grinder like the hoof boss. 

​

Goats are sociable, playful creatures. They enjoy gentle attention; do not play aggressively with them or they will become aggressive (if you rub their head playing butting games they will but you unpredictably). They especially enjoy a neck or chest rub. They enjoy climbing and jumping on rocks, stumps, and platforms made for their pleasure (and your entertainment).

 

When you bring your goat home, expect that it will be frightened and nervous until they gets used to their new home. Your goat will probably be a bit noisy, may act shy, and will need TLC and reassurance that their new home is a safe, comfortable, happy place. It usually takes about a  couple of weeks for them to settle in. Don't chase your goat, let him/her come to you; it helps to offer a treat (handful of grain or vegie-fruit treat). 

 

The Bohlken herd is tested regularly for Caprine Arthritic Encephalitis (CAE) and Johnnes Disease.   They do not have contagious abscesses (Caseous Lymphadenitis). These are the three most serious, deadly, contagious goat diseases. Beware of these when adding new goats (or other ruminants) to your heard.

​

A healthy goat appears contented, alert, has an appetite, chews its cud, and usually has its tail up. Its coat is smooth and glossy, skin is clean and pliable. One can feel the ribs under the skin but bones do not appear to jut out. The manure consists of formed, slightly moist pellets which, with the urine should be passed without effort. The normal body tempature of a goat is 102-103F. The normal pulse is 70-80/minute.